This article is from National Geographic Traveler (U.K).
Pick up almost all South African wines, which is unlikely to be made by a colored winemaker. But things are changing. More and more determination can improve opportunities, especially for young people who want to enter the industry. Initiatives such as the Cape Society of Winemakers (CWG) Protegé program, which enables newly graduated winemakers from disadvantaged backgrounds to work with some of the country’s leading winemakers to benefit several award-winning young people. Among them is Kiara Scott Farmer, who was named Diners Club Winemaker of the Year.
“As early as 2020, there were only a few serious roles. Now it’s almost twice as much.” Another young CWG alumnus, Rudger Van Wyk, said he founded his own wine brand New Dawn after he successfully served as chief winemaker at Starlenbosch-based Stark-condé.
The story behind the people who forge the industry’s path is impressive. Berene Sauls’ elegant Burgundian-style Pinot sold for over £40, and he began to serve as an au pair in hemel-en-aarde, one of South Africa’s most prestigious wine districts. Before becoming a member of the winemaking team, she graduated from paperwork and then founded her own brand, Tesselaarsdal. Meanwhile, Praisy Dlamini worked hard in the wine business and started a groundbreaking winery called her, consisting entirely of black women.
The careless winemaker I spoke to was passionate about many of the same grapes and styles as mature winemakers. Rudger was inspired by the Rhône variety, while Kiara favored low intervention methods and has been trying field mixtures. There is also a determination to be recognized not only for its color.
“Just because you are a person of color…you still have a responsibility to put quality products in your bottle,” Rudger said. “The challenge is that winemakers of color don’t come from the agricultural backgrounds that have been established for generations, but all the knowledge that comes with it.”
There are also obstacles to entry. “Due to historical and socioeconomic factors, it is well known that land ownership and access to high-quality fruits have been difficult in South Africa,” said Mags Janjo, a black importer of South African wine. “From money, it’s a South African winemaker, not to mention people from marginalized groups.”
In view of this, the determination of black South African winemakers to develop colleagues with them is impressive. “I’ve always been successful,” Rudger said modestly. “And I think it’s one of the responsibilities of helping young people. South Africa is a diverse community and we should celebrate it.”
Five attempts
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Amandla Our Future Sauvignon Blanc 2023/24
Citrussy Sauvignon Blanc was made in the Western Cape by Praisy Dlamini and his team. Perfect for grilled prawns, other seafood or crunchy salads and asparagus, it will take you from winter to spring to drink. £9.50.
Kara Tara Chardonnay 2022
Winemaker Rudger Van Wyk performed this buttery Chardonnay in Burgundy time, which comes from four cool South African vineyards. Drink anything with any cream or mushrooms or scallops. £24.49.
Brookdale Sixteen Field Mix 2023
Field mixtures are made from different kinds of vines that grow together in the same vineyard. This is made by award-winning vintager Kiara Scott Farmer, and is a gorgeous white that you can drink just about anything. £26.99.
Tesselaarsdal Pinot Noir 2023
This ethereal, delicate, very delicious Pinot Noir, made by Berene Sauls in the Hemel-en-aarde region proves that South African wines are world-class, while colored winemakers are on their top level. Perfect with roast duck. £46.
M’Hudi Family Boutique Pinotage 2021
Pinotage is South African professional, but the cheap version can be disappointing. Apart from the large, spicy, sweet red from the country’s first black-owned wine farm. Perfect for barbecue. £22.99.
Published in Issue 27 (Spring 2025) National Geographic Traveler’s Food (U.K).
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